Welcome!

  • Img_2742_2_2

    I'm Susie Bright, I live in Santa Cruz, California— I like to cook and sew and throw parties and wear costumes and pretend I'm running my own couture maison.

    It's a dreamy escape from my other world, which is writing, publishing, & politics.

    If you'd like to stay abreast of my new stories, add my blog to your newsfeed, or sign up for my email updates— use the little widget on the bottom left of this page.

    The subtitle of my blog, Good Cooking, Fine Sewing, & the Leisure Hours, is inspired from a quote by Kitty Emeneau, the devoted wife of famous linguist Murray Emeneau.

    Murray was influential in his field, and Kitty was an exceptional hostess. At one of their parties, a student asked Kitty if she was a behind-the-scenes collaborator on Murray's linguistic epics, in the manner of many "faculty wives" who worked without credit on their husbands' endeavors.

    "Oh no, dear," Kitty said, with a trill that rivalled any drag queen's. "I'm strictly for his leisure hours!"

Your email address:


Powered by FeedBlitz

Betty Jo's Valentines

  • Rooster
    These are valentines from my mother's childhood scrapbook, "Betty Jo" Halloran. They were sent and received, from her siblings, grandparents, cousins, and friends, from 1929 to 1938, in Fargo, North Dakota, and Minneapolis/St. Paul. Please enjoy them with my love. xoxo, Susie

Fabric

November 13, 2007

Life's Too Short for Pants

Dungarees The modern woman endures a lifetime love affair with pants. The tears will come, as well as the joys.

It started off with such a bang. It was in that golden period, between John Lennon announcing the Beatles were more popular than Christ, and the first copy of Ms. magazine appearing on our doorsteps, that something miraculous occurred. Across the fruited plain, in every school, in every grade and class, a voice appeared on the public address system, and announced: “Next Monday, girls will be allowed to wear pants.” Very often, there was a postscript: “Dungarees will not be tolerated.”

The next schoolday— I was in sixth grade— every single female appeared on campus in trousers, leggings, and yes, dungarees (that is to say, JEANS).

“Not tolerated” be damned. This was so much bigger than going bra-less. Can young women today comprehend a time in their mother’s lives when they couldn’t wear pants? How did we ever play kickball in a jumper?

There was only one hitch: It’s difficult to look great in pants. Trouser-liberators like Kate Hepburn were a rail-like exception to the rule.

Jeans were made originally for men to work in, at manual labor— not to sashay down the boulevard. There wasn’t a lot of call for making one’s derriere look fabulous. Most men don’t have much waist-to-hip differential, or would just as soon live with plumber’s butt and jackets that cover it all up. Early tailors never thought about making jean designs that held you in the right places and let you out in the others.

Of course that’s all changed now. You walk into a typical jeans store, and they have walls of folded denim and khaki, with signs directing you to styles like “curvy,” “low rise,” “classic,” “relaxed,” “boys cut,” and the enigmatic “long and lean”— is that an aspiration or a current appraisal?



Continue reading "Life's Too Short for Pants" »

July 18, 2007

"Nancy, Go After That Man!"

Nancydrewgirldetective_1909_866923 Yes, I just bought 3 yards of Nancy Drew, Girl Detective fabric.

It's cotton, and as you can see, it's in the design of a grid of some of Nancy's most memorable incarnations, and breathless bits of dialog. 

"I only hope my masquerade will bring results!"

I especially like the profile of her where her hair is blood red. I can never get that color.

So what should I sew with this? I've seen aprons, PJ's, and pillowcases. But I want to do something glamourous and subversive. Any clues?

By the way, if you've never read any of the Nancy Drew parodies, may I suggest, The Case of the Not-So-Nice Nurse?

June 08, 2007

Prom Night, Gun Fight

Img_1151_1 It's prom time. It's beautiful girl time. It's also military service time for  young women in Israel.

I've been soaking in all of it. On the high side, I made a prom dress for my friend Gabby, who's  turning 18 and graduating from high school this month.

This is my third "Cinderella" dress. I made one in Schiaparelli pink for my daughter's Quinceneara, and I made one for myself— just because— in Cowboy Sleeping Bag flannel with minkish trim.

For you fashionistas, Gabby's dress is a riff off a McCalls pattern. Gabby had the idea of lime green satin overlaid with black lace, and my teacher Jill Sanders led the way, showing me how to make a corset lace-up in the back. It's  simpler than a zipper for this sort of thing, and you can really make it FIT. 

Ah, but in the meantime, one of my readers sent me the most amazing link: a photographer's portfolio of teenage girls in the Israeli army. It's called:  Serial No. 3817131, which is the number the artist, Rachel Papo, was known by during her miliary career. It's also the number of her gun.

From Papo's artist statement:

05_1 The life of an eighteen-year-old girl in Israel is interrupted when she is plucked out of her environment at an age when sexual, educational, and family values are at their highest exploration point.

She is then placed in a rigorous institution, where individuality becomes a secondary matter, making room for nationalism. “I solemnly swear…to devote all of my strength and to sacrifice my life to protect the land and the liberty of Israel,” repeats the newly recruited soldier during her swearing-in ceremony.

She enters the two-year period in which she will change from a girl to a woman, a teenager to an adult, all under a militaristic, masculine environment, and in the confines of an army that is engaged in daily war and conflict.

I decided to portray female soldiers in Israel during their mandatory military service as a way for me to revisit my own experience.

I served as a photographer in the Israeli Air Force between 1988-1990. It was a period marked by continuous depression and extreme loneliness, and at the time I was too young to understand these emotions. Through a series of images showing female soldiers in army bases and outside, individually or in groups, I attempt to reveal a facet of this experience that is generally overlooked by the global community...

Img_1677 And speaking of prom dresses and the War At Home, did you see the story about the delivery of prom dresses, by the hundreds, collected for glamourous young misses in New Orleans? I would have liked to be part of that drive! Sometimes glamour is the only answer to utter devastation.

April 14, 2007

Pirates of the Carribean Skirt: Ahoy there, Wenches!

Newskirt I feel pretty; I feel witty; I feel pretty and witty and GAY! 

I feel like Rita Moreno on the best day she ever had, because I just finished my new skirt.  Doesn't it rock? It actually floats and swirls and plays hide and seek, too.  Aretha has dubbed it "The Pirates of the Caribbean" skirt. Johnny Depp must be gnashing his teeth to gaze upon it.

Here's my sewing instructions, and the pattern info for it. This is one of those patterns that looks like a total bore on the package cover, but has secret potential.

Now, onto my Nancy Drew dress! Yes, out of all your suggestions I flipped over CH Cisson's idea of the cocktail dress with the square neckline and princess seams.

I love princess seams. Yes, they require more cutting (a front and two side fronts), but making a full bust adjustment (which you need for anything over a B cup) is a SNAP, and they make you look like a very svelte princess indeed.

I'm cutting it out as soon as I finish this post. I  relished the "Nancy Drew police uniform" suggestion too, but I'm afraid I need more immediate gratification. Uniforms require tailoring, (i.e., muchas horas)  whereas a sexy cocktail dress is a one-day dressmaking affair.

Speaking of Pirate Booty, here is a knitting pattern for a Pirate Queen Booty Bag. Dammit, I need a stitch-slave!

Susie's Q