Welcome!

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    I'm Susie Bright, I live in Santa Cruz, California— I like to cook and sew and throw parties and wear costumes and pretend I'm running my own couture maison.

    It's a dreamy escape from my other world, which is writing, publishing, & politics.

    If you'd like to stay abreast of my new stories, add my blog to your newsfeed, or sign up for my email updates— use the little widget on the bottom left of this page.

    The subtitle of my blog, Good Cooking, Fine Sewing, & the Leisure Hours, is inspired from a quote by Kitty Emeneau, the devoted wife of famous linguist Murray Emeneau.

    Murray was influential in his field, and Kitty was an exceptional hostess. At one of their parties, a student asked Kitty if she was a behind-the-scenes collaborator on Murray's linguistic epics, in the manner of many "faculty wives" who worked without credit on their husbands' endeavors.

    "Oh no, dear," Kitty said, with a trill that rivalled any drag queen's. "I'm strictly for his leisure hours!"

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Betty Jo's Valentines

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    These are valentines from my mother's childhood scrapbook, "Betty Jo" Halloran. They were sent and received, from her siblings, grandparents, cousins, and friends, from 1929 to 1938, in Fargo, North Dakota, and Minneapolis/St. Paul. Please enjoy them with my love. xoxo, Susie

Formal Wear

October 14, 2007

A Nun’s (Sewing) Story

Susiemommy My mother always told me that the nuns taught her how to sew.
You know what that means, don’t you? Every garment must be as neat on its back as its front, each running stitch identical. All dresses are lined; every pleat is tailor-pressed. If you can’t make a proper French Knot, you might find a ruler-toting nun placing one around your neck.

But my mom always laughed when she talked about her Catholic dressmaker days. When she made outfits for my dolls, she never got around to putting snaps on the backs. She remarked that my high school Home Ec teacher seemed like “an awful old frump,” and finished my final project for me, drinking a beer.

Was there more to this sartorial nun-training than met the eye? Before my mother died a couple years ago, she opened up on a number of topics, including some schoolgirl memories I’d never heard before.

She grew up, as “Betty Jo,” one of five in a Depression-era, Irish-Catholic ghetto in St. Paul. The church was the center of social life and cultural identity. A nun might be someone a young girl would look up to.

“Not all of the nuns were old, either,” Mom told me. Her sewing teacher was the youngest novice, Sister Marie, who adored— adored!— fashion.

When Betty Jo couldn’t decide on a plaid skirt or a middy blouse, Sister Marie pushed those patterns aside, and pointed to a Vogue magazine cover: “What about this?”

It was a one of those sexy Lauren Bacall numbers, a siren dancing dress.

“Sister told me she had some red silk she would give me, if I would make it.”

“She had four yards of red silk stashed in a convent?” I asked.

Mom rolled her eyes at me. Clearly I had no idea of the treasures secreted in nunneries. “Well, that was in the days when I had a nineteen-inch waist,” she said, as if that was an explanation.

“Did you have the pattern?”

“Oh no, we couldn’t afford that!” She got a cross look, like she might cut the story short because of my stupid questions, but the morphine softened her a little. “No, Sister Marie took my measurements, and drew a pattern from the photograph, just freehand, on old parish newspapers.

“It was like Coco Chanel trapped in a convent!" I said. “She lived vicariously through you!”

“I never thought of it that way, Susie, she was just so sweet.” My mom turned the pages of the photo album I brought to her lap.

“What about these hot pants? Were those her idea, too?” I said, pointing at a black and white snapshot of my mom in a polka-dot two-piece.

“Oh yes! We called those short-shorts! Look at how crooked they are!”

It seemed like every outlandish high school costume had been some inspiration tracing back to Sister Marie. Kitty-cat ears with a tail, massive fairy-tale capes, huge shoulders, peplums, and tight skirts.
“Is she the one who taught you to embroider, too?” I asked. I’d brought pillow cases to mom’s nursing home bed that were in tatters, but they were the roses and bluebirds-of-happiness on white sheeting that my mom and I had sewed long ago, when I was little.

If there is anything that is saved in one’s personal history, it’s handmade garments, or linens, that hold the most sensual memories. When your parents are gone, you’ll sleep wrapped in that cloth and dream of them.

“Yes, she did,” my mom said, answering my question. Her voice got whispery. Our conversations were brief in the last months of her life, and this had been a big one. “She taught me—"

She looked past me, as if Sister Marie was checking her from the inside out. “She taught me... how to stitch... a perfect French Knot.” Her cheek turned to the pillow, and closed her eyes, a little bluebird wing still visible under her chin.

Continue reading "A Nun’s (Sewing) Story" »

June 08, 2007

Prom Night, Gun Fight

Img_1151_1 It's prom time. It's beautiful girl time. It's also military service time for  young women in Israel.

I've been soaking in all of it. On the high side, I made a prom dress for my friend Gabby, who's  turning 18 and graduating from high school this month.

This is my third "Cinderella" dress. I made one in Schiaparelli pink for my daughter's Quinceneara, and I made one for myself— just because— in Cowboy Sleeping Bag flannel with minkish trim.

For you fashionistas, Gabby's dress is a riff off a McCalls pattern. Gabby had the idea of lime green satin overlaid with black lace, and my teacher Jill Sanders led the way, showing me how to make a corset lace-up in the back. It's  simpler than a zipper for this sort of thing, and you can really make it FIT. 

Ah, but in the meantime, one of my readers sent me the most amazing link: a photographer's portfolio of teenage girls in the Israeli army. It's called:  Serial No. 3817131, which is the number the artist, Rachel Papo, was known by during her miliary career. It's also the number of her gun.

From Papo's artist statement:

05_1 The life of an eighteen-year-old girl in Israel is interrupted when she is plucked out of her environment at an age when sexual, educational, and family values are at their highest exploration point.

She is then placed in a rigorous institution, where individuality becomes a secondary matter, making room for nationalism. “I solemnly swear…to devote all of my strength and to sacrifice my life to protect the land and the liberty of Israel,” repeats the newly recruited soldier during her swearing-in ceremony.

She enters the two-year period in which she will change from a girl to a woman, a teenager to an adult, all under a militaristic, masculine environment, and in the confines of an army that is engaged in daily war and conflict.

I decided to portray female soldiers in Israel during their mandatory military service as a way for me to revisit my own experience.

I served as a photographer in the Israeli Air Force between 1988-1990. It was a period marked by continuous depression and extreme loneliness, and at the time I was too young to understand these emotions. Through a series of images showing female soldiers in army bases and outside, individually or in groups, I attempt to reveal a facet of this experience that is generally overlooked by the global community...

Img_1677 And speaking of prom dresses and the War At Home, did you see the story about the delivery of prom dresses, by the hundreds, collected for glamourous young misses in New Orleans? I would have liked to be part of that drive! Sometimes glamour is the only answer to utter devastation.

Susie's Q